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Piqué versus single jersey: which to choose and when

Both fabrics come from cotton, but they give different results in shelf life, hand feel and cost.

When buying a polo shirt, most buyers look at colour first and price second. Yet how that garment will look six months later is largely decided by the knit structure of the fabric. Piqué and single jersey are the two cotton knits most often met in ready-to-wear; both come from the same raw material, but they behave quite differently.

What piqué is

Piqué is a knit that forms small textured cells on its surface. These cells give the fabric both volume and a pronounced texture. Thanks to that bulk the fabric supports itself, which is why polo collars stand more upright in piqué. The open structure also eases airflow, so it feels less stifling against the skin in hot weather.

The trade-off is weight. At the same GSM it feels thicker than single jersey and takes a little longer to dry.

What single jersey is

Single jersey is a flat-faced, fine knit. The majority of t-shirts are produced in it. It sits closer to the skin, and is lighter and softer. Because it also takes print well, it is preferred for promotional items.

In return, single jersey falls behind piqué at holding shape. Unless the neck area is supported with an extra rib, widening can appear after a few washes.

If you want a polo collar, piqué is usually the right answer; if you want an essential tee, single jersey is.

What to check when buying

Fabric weight is the first value to look at. In a piqué knit, going below 200 grams reduces the uprightness of the collar; in single jersey, fabrics under 150 grams stay thin and can show through. Second, look at the collar rib: if the rib is knitted separately and densely, the collar lasts longer.

Third is mercerization. Mercerized yarn reflects light more evenly, resists colour fading better and leaves the surface slightly more lustrous. It creates a price difference, but it pays off in upper-segment products.

The practical outcome in wholesale

For pieces that will stand in the window, be photographed, and have their quality felt when the customer picks them up, piqué is the safer choice. For shelf depth and fast-moving essentials, single jersey is more cost-effective. Most boutiques carry both: they build brand perception with piqué and sell units with single jersey.

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